The Robot Builder’s Shield V3 kit

Product Description: This kit contains the V3 PCB and all the parts needed to build the Robot Builder’s Shield.

Price: $16.00              OUT OF STOCK!

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The Robot Builder’s Shield V3 for Arduino allows a robot builder to easily build a small robot that uses 2 small geared DC motors for driving, directly plug in 6 analog or digital sensors, directly plug in up to 6 servos and experiment with other devices on the prototyping area or a mini breadboard, like a Buzzer, LEDs, IR proximity, etc.

Here is a picture of the assembled shield:                  and with a Mini Breadboard:

Download the Assembly Guide here.

The shield can be purchased assembled from our distributor, Creatron Inc.



22 thoughts on “The Robot Builder’s Shield V3 kit

  1. I’m having a problem regarding step 16 of the assembly guide.
    I am using the arduino uno r3 (with the huge usb connector), and although I put the electric tape on exactly as described, the shield pierced through it as I assembled the shield onto the arduino, thus causing a short circuit.
    Any help is greatly appreciated!

    • When you cut the leads of the power connector, they are still sharp and long. You need to file them as short as possible and as smooth as possible. I believe I said in step 15 in the assembly guide to cut and file the leads then cover them with electrical tape. Always use common sense, if something doesn’t look right or you think it may cause problems, ask if what you did is good enough. A picture is worth a thousand words, nowadays taking a picture is so hard.
      Let me know if anything burned…

      • Thanks, got it working and nothing burned!
        BTW, can the motor controller make the motors go in reverse also, or only stop and forward?

      • Of course it goes in reverse! Did you look at the sample code in the Assembly Guide? There are Forward, Reverse, Left, Right, Stop functions at the end of the code…

  2. that’s weired, I copied the code exactly and in the loop I wrote Reverse(); delay(2000); Forward(); delay(2000); and it stopped when it was supposed to reverse, but went forward, left, and right perfectly. Any ideas? Thanks

    • I think there is a problem with the control mode setup. Which control mode you have chosen to drive the motors? There is a 2 pin mode or a 3 pin mode, and you have to set them in hardware and in software. Let’s say you’re using 2 pin mode, then set the jumpers as in step 17, then in the code make sure you have commented out the #define _3PinControl_ line (with // in front of the #define). If it still does not work, let me know how the robot turns left or right, with one wheel going forward and the other stopped (turn around a wheel) or running in reverse (turn in place). If the robot turns in place, there is a problem in the code somewhere and I’ll need to take a look at your code.

      • I’m using the 2 pin mode with the 3 pin mode commented out and I got the shield preassembled.
        Also, the robot turns right/left with one motor turning and the other stopped.
        Thank you very much for your help!

      • Which power pins exactly? The Green power screw connector takes power from the battery (6V for servos) and IF you plug in the jumper, you can forward that voltage to the Arduino Vin pin to power the Arduino from the same battery as the motors and servos.

        However, if you use a 6V battery, the Arduino’s voltage regulator can’t provide a perfect 5V regulated voltage, so the Vcc pins on both the Arduino and the shield will have about 4.6-4.8V. It will still work, actually the microcontroller works with voltages as low as 2.7V so you don’t have to worry about this.

      • I need to see a picture of your setup with the board clear to figure out how things are connected and where the problem lies. It can be either in the hardware or the software, we need to determine where.

  3. So the problem was that the package did not arrive with the jumpers and so there were no jumpers on the H-bridge for pin control so I could not change the speeds or go reverse.

    The designer of the board met with me at the creatron store toronto and quickly solved the problem.

    Also, where do I attatch a second IR sensor so that it has 5V?

    Thank you very much for your help!

    • You’re welcome. I talked with the Creatron store owner and he’s going to add the jumpers to the shields before selling them. About the second sensor, you should get a 3 pin housing and crimp pins from the Creatron store and crimp them on the sensor wires like this: black wire at the pin with the arrow on the housing case, then the red wire in the middle, then the white wire in the remaining hole. Then you can plug the sensor in a 3 pin header with the white wire towards the marking (A0, A1, … A5) and the black wire towards the edge of the board. Since your first sensor is plugged into A0, plug the second sensor into A1. Oh, and you can do the same with the first sensor.

  4. I see, I plan on using a JST connector and connect the red to one of the 5v pins in the minibreadboard, black to gnd, and white to analog0…5. Thanks for your help while I’m also ordering the more efficient pololu motors you recommended 🙂

    • The JST connector has a different pin spacing than the standard pins that servos use. I have provided on the shield a 3 pin header area for sensor connections especially to make things easy. A bag of a 3 pin female housing and 3 crimp pins costs only a few cents, you can use long nose pliers to crimp them on the wires, then insert them in the housing in the correct order and you’re done, no more risk of things not working because of a bad connection. Use the proto board for other type of sensors that can’t be directly connected to the provided 3 pin headers. Now be careful, the 3 pin headers labeled “Servos” have battery voltage in the middle, not regulated 5V, you can use the pins for sensors, but connect the sensor power to any available 5V pin.

  5. I have received an Arduino Uno R3 and a Robot Builder’s Shield as holiday presents. I am sure they were purchased at Creatron. I mated them and just to understand some things, I tested the continuity between various pins. To my surprise, the +5v and GND were shorted. Good thing I didn’t actually try to power this yet or I might have melted down big time. Looking more closely at the power pins of both boards, I find there are two GND pins between the Vin and 5v pins on the UNO, but only one GND pin between the Vin and 5v pins on the RBS. This means the 5v pin on the shield plugs into GND on the UNO. Surely this can’t be right? It’s a total short! What am I missing???

    • Hi Basil,
      When I designed the shield, it worked fine, but meanwhile Arduino team modified some pin placements on their last boards. I will need to take a look at the Uno boards to see exactly what they did, but it might work if you just cut the pin from the shield that goes down in the wrong place. However, make sure the 5v shield pin gets powered from the Uno board or the shield will not work.

      • Looks like I found it. I had forgotten to insulate the top of the USB connector on the Arduino Uno to prevent shorting against the bottom of the shield. Mea Culpa. I have them hooked up now and seem to have no shorting problem.Thanks

    • I’m sorry, I no longer have time to manage this enterprise, so I did not order new parts, I still sell what ever I have on stock until it is gone, then I’ll not renew the domain and pay for hosting starting with September this year. I’ll offer the docs and all through my Blog. Try with Creatron, I have sent them the Gerber files, they should have the kits in stock soon.

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